Solo Backpacker Guide To Annapurna Base Camp Trek

An Indian Traveler

2 years ago

Solo Backpacker Guide To Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Alright, as promised in my previous post, I am back with “the first part of the other part” of my journey in Nepal After completing my volunteer stint at the college in the Far-west region of Nepal. I traveled to Pokhara via a 19-hour-long bus journey. I decided to do the Annapurna Base Camp trek between the Annapurna Base Camp trek and the Everest Base camp trek. I did the ABC trek in less than 4 days during the rainy season of June. It was quite simply one of the best trekking experiences of my life. In this post, you will find the Solo Backpacker Guide To Annapurna Base Camp Trek

DAY 1: POKHARA TO GHANDRUK

On Day 0, I obtained the TIMS card and Permit for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek from Pokhara Tourist Office. The next day, I traveled to Ghandruk from Pokhara via Local bus (Departure time was 9.05 am). I met a group of cousins from Kathmandu on the bus. We decided to do the trek together and spent the night at Chhomrong on Day 1. After the smooth and bumpy ride, we reached Ghandruk at 12.30 pm.

DAY 1: GHANDRUK-KOMRONG-KIMRONG- CHHHOMRONG

After having a light lunch, we begin trekking at 1.30 pm. The path was mostly plain with a few patches of a steep climb. Just before reaching Komrong, we lost our way, but shortly after with the help of locals, we were back on the right path. Also, you can check the Maps.me mobile application if/when you lose your way during the trek. From Komrong, it is a downhill trek to reach Kimrong. Just before the Kimrong suspension bridge, the group decided to take a break, but I kept on going. I have not seen them again until Day 3. After crossing Kimrong, I was completely alone and totally enjoying the “Solo Into the Wild” feeling. Seeing lush green Himalayan landscapes, never-seen-before plants, Tin-roofed houses, and local way of farming kept me engrossed. I reached Chhomrong around 6 pm. While passing through a homestay, a group of people invited me for a shot of Raksi (a local homemade alcoholic beverage). Subsequently, I decided to spend the night there. After the shot, how could I say “NO” haha. Luckily and Coincidentally, It started raining heavily shortly after. After having the much-needed dinner, I decided to call it a night.

**Reached Sinuwa: Laundry service is available.**

**Foggy but luckily it didn’t rained that day!**

**Hinku Cave: Between Himalaya and Deurali**

**If the previous one looked simple haha**

**Finally, after 10+ hours of trekking!**

DAY 2: CHHOMRONG-SINUWA-BAMBOO-DOVAN-HIMALAYA-DEURALI-MBC

When I woke up in the morning, it was raining heavily again. While I had my tea, the rain started to subside. I begin my trek at 7.30 am. I had no particular destination in mind where I was looking to spend the night. I decided to just go with the flow and push myself as far as possible. Little did I know that I would keep on going and going while crossing many villages/hamlets i.e. Sinuwa, Bamboo, Dovan, Himalaya, Deurali and finally, I reached MBC. Accommodations and restaurants/eateries are available at all these places. MBC is Machapuchare Base Camp(3700 m). I stayed at MBC for the night. Machapuchare mountain is known as FishTail mountain (Elevation: 6993 m). On the way, I encountered misty dense forests, uphill and downhill paths, glaciers, waterfall, temples, thoughtful local people, amazingly strong Gorkha people, stunning landscapes, narrow wooden bridges, beautiful homes and a meditative mind 🙂 Luckily, It didn’t rain that day. Just a drizzle here and there. I reached MBC at around 6.30 pm. The last hour to reach MBC was a real test for me as I was completely destroyed, but I kept pushing myself more and more. I pushed myself a bit too far, and the consequences were to follow. I started my day from Chhomrong i.e. located at an elevation of 2100 m and finished with Machapuchare Base Camp at 3700 m. I trekked for 10+ hours, and I gained substantial altitude. At night, I had the worst case of diarrhea and stomach pain. Since I always carry my medication, It didn’t persist, and I could get through the night.

**4.30 am view of Machapuchare Mountain**

**Here’s looking at Annapurna I (10th highest in the world)**

**Annapurna base camp lodges with Machapuchare Mountain in background**

**Horses are used as a means of transport as well.**

DAY 3: MBC-ABC-CHHOMRONG

The next day, I woke up at 4.30 am to continue my trek to Annapurna base camp. It is important to reach ABC i.e. Annapurna base camp (Elevation: 4130 m) early in the morning to avoid cloudy weather and have a clear view of the mighty Annapurna ranges. Annapurna is a 55 km long massif consisting of 30 peaks. Annapurna I (main) is the 10th highest mountain in the world. Its elevation is 8091m. I reached Annapurna base camp in an hour or so from Machapuchare Base Camp. I was not 100% fit, but I decided to give it a go. I begin the last leg with music in my ears, a small bag on my back, and positive vibes in my heart. I listened to the “Aazaadiyan” (freedom) song from the “Udaan” movie on a loop. The song took me back to my first Solo trip ever to the Netherlands. I cried at first sight of the Annapurna. It was such an emotionally charged experience. I climbed up to the best viewpoint and sat there for more than an hour as if the Himalayas had cast a spell on me. I felt a touch of magic realism. I just kept looking at the Annapurna ranges. Majestic! After the experience, I was infused with insurmountable energy. I trekked all the way from the ABC to Chhomrong with a couple of breaks. On the way, I met the same group of cousins with whom I started the trek. Their plan was to reach ABC on Day 3. I wish them the best and bid them goodbye. I reached Chhomrong around 5.30 pm. It rained a lot that day, but I somehow managed to reach back to Chhomrong. This is the benefit of starting out early in the morning. I slept like a baby that day after a hot water bath.

**Suspension bridge connecting Jhinu and Samrung**

**Samrung bus stop is on the other side 🙂**

DAY 4: CHHOMRONG-JHINU-SAMRUNG

The next day, I woke up feeling fresh. The last few hours of the unforgettable trek. I took a different route. Instead of going back to Ghandruk, I trekked to Samrung via Jhinu. I left at around 6.30 am and reached my destination around 8.15 am. The way to Jhinu is clearly marked in Chhomrong. It is a completely downhill trek to Jhinu from Chhomrong. There’s a famous hot spring in Jhinu, but I didn’t go there. At the end of Jhinu, I crossed the suspension bridge, and it took me to the bus stop at Samrung. One can also start the trek from Samrung but there will be a lot of uphill stairs to reach Chhomrong. Personally, I always avoid the uphill stairs whenever I can while trekking. There’s a bus from Samrung to Pokhara in the morning, around 8.30 am, but my plan was not to go back to Pokhara. Where did I go? Stay tuned for the last post about my journey in Nepal 🙂

**Pokhara to Ghandruk bus timings: 6.30 am, 7.50 am, 9.05 am, 10.30 am, 11.50 am, 12.50 pm, 1.50 pm, 2.55 pm, 4 pm**

PERMIT, FOOD, ACCOMMODATION, TRANSPORTATION

TRANSPORTATION: Pokhara to Ghandruk bus timings are as above(see pic above). They depart from Baglung Bus Park in Pokhara. Most buses go up to Samrung as well. The price was around 200 NPR. Samrung to Pokhara bus ply in the morning at around 8.30 am. Please check with locals regarding afternoon bus timings.

PERMIT: You need TIMS (Trekkers’ information management system) card and permit to do the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. It was half an hour-long process, and I did it in Pokhara at Tourist Police and Permit Office. Documents required are an Original Passport or Aadhar card(for Indians), Photos(Photos can be clicked at the office itself). TIMS card and Permit fees for different nationalities.

**Number of hotels mentioned at every place**

FOOD & ACCOMMODATION: On DAY 1, I stayed at Real Chhomrong Lodge and Restaurant. I paid 800 NPR (Nepalese Rupee) for a night stay + Dinner + Morning Tea.
On Day 2, I stayed at Macchupuchare Guest House and Restaurant (Next to Nepal Annapurna Rescue Centre) I paid 1000 NPR for a night stay + Dinner + Morning Tea.
On Day 3, I stayed in Chhomrong for 800 NPR for a night stay + Dinner + Morning Tea.
I had my lunch at Bamboo guest house situated at Bamboo. Nepali Veg thali is 500-600 NPR. The place is run by an empathetic lady. They have a staying option too.

THINGS TO KNOW

I would suggest you add one more day to my itinerary. You can stay at Bamboo or Dovan/Upper Dovan while trekking from Chhomrong to ABC. You can extend your trek by including Poon-Hill (Ghorepani) trek or by starting from Nayapul instead of Ghandruk. Check the above pic.
Download the mobile application “Maps.me” and download the Offline Nepal map. The whole trail is clearly marked in the mobile application. You won’t lose your way if you just follow the trail.
I left my big backpack in Pokhara. Carry a medium-sized backpack if you are not planning on camping by yourself. There are accommodations and restaurants in each of the villages/hamlets. The distance between two villages/hamlets is a maximum of a couple of hours. Carry less and enjoy more!
All the above prices I mentioned in the “Food & Accommodation” are post-negotiation. Please note that I did the trek in the off-season of June. The mentioned prices may vary in the peak season.
During the rainy season, a good poncho is a must. When it shines, apply sunscreen (SPF- 50+). Also, carry Cold Cream and a Lip guard. Your boots will be a lifesaver. So it is really important to wear comfortable and good trekking shoes. Carry a water bottle, a light hat, and a head torch.
Pack a good amount of Dry fruits. It will keep your body warm.
Consult your doctor for AMS-related medicine. You will be trekking up to 4130 m elevation.
There are NO ATMs. Therefore, Carry ample cash.
Drinking water (hot and normal) can be refilled at the villages/hamlets for a cost.
Limited internet and network connectivity. NTC mobile network works better than Ncell mobile network. Wi-fi is available at some eateries and accommodations
Folks, Please take your inorganic garbage back with you. Let’s preserve the prestigious Himalayan region for us and future generations to enjoy.
PLACES ELEVATION- Pokhara: 822m/ Ghandruk: 2012m/ Komrong: 2220m/ Kimrong: 1715m/ Chhomrong: 2150m/ Sinuwa: 2340m/ Bamboo: 2310m/ Dovan: 2505m/ Himalaya: 2900m/ Deurali: 3200m/ MBC: 3700m/ ABC: 4130m.