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The Ultimate Winter and Summer Travel Guide To Spiti Valley Part 1

ultimate travel guide to spiti valley

Spiti valley is a remote cold desert mountain valley that lies in the state of Himachal Pradesh, India. The local pronunciation is “Piti” which means “The Middle Land”. I had the opportunity to visit the Spiti Valley twice in 2021 in two completely different seasons. Firstly in April and later in July. Two completely different experiences. This is the beauty of mountains. The landscapes changes as per the seasons. The Ultimate Travel Guide to Spiti Valley has been divided into two parts. Part 1 of the ultimate travel guide to Spiti Valley will give you insight into my experiences in Spiti Valley during the Winter season. The popular Spiti Valley circuit goes like Shimla- Reckong Peo- Spiti Valley-Kunzum Pass- Chandratal Lake- Manali. I did complete this circuit but periodically 🙂 Continuing from the previous postAfter spending a night in Nako, the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh, I begin my journey to the Spiti Valley.

Camel of Spiti Valley 😉
On the way to Shichling village


I took a bus from Nako in the morning to reach my first destination in Spiti Valley i.e. Dhankar Village. After an hour or so, I finally entered the Spiti Valley from Kinnaur Valley. At the army checkpoint, our photo ids were checked and registration was done. Even though April is not considered a proper winter month. It was just my luck that due to unseasonal heavy snowfall, the temperature drops to minus 10. It is one of the coldest temperatures I have ever experienced. It somewhat reminds me of my time in Park City, Utah during my stint as a volunteer at Sundance Film Festival. I basically lived a monk’s life during my time in Spiti Valley haha. Due to unseasonal snowfall, there was virtually no electricity, no water and no mobile signal for a week or so. I was completely hypnotised by the landscapes. My eyes were experiencing multiple orgasms during a day haha 🙂  I did the Shimla-Reckong Peo- Kaza circuit and returned back from the same route. In the month of July, I did complete the circuit from the other side i.e. Manali-Chandratal Lake- Kunzum Pass- Lossar- Kaza.

Yep, I had to cross those mountains. Dhankar village is somewhere behind
Uh oh. Danger alert!
Weather is changing!
Finally, some view of the village
Almost there 🙂
Entered the village
Friendly local villager
And naughty local kids haha
The view from the hotel
Heavy snowfall begins! Reached the village just in time
And the view changed 🙂
Hypnotising mountains
Dhankar monastery in sight

The next day
Lets go to the lake!
Another monastery on the way to the Dhankar lake

Village view from above
This is where Mr. Dim Dul met me and It turns out this house belongs to Mr. Dim Dul too

Buddhist paintings inside the house

And I made it to the Dhankar lake!
Walking along the frozen dhankar lake
Mr. Dim dul showcasing his depth finding skills haha
small temple near the lake
Bhangra on the lake. Anyone?
The possible footprints of Snow leopard
Who is this? hmmm

On the way back

I must be saying “I want to live there” 🙂
The village in sight


The bus dropped me at Shichling village. 3 hrs ride from Nako village. From the Shichling village, I trekked to the Dhankar Village. It was mostly a steep walk. Trekking in Spiti Valley is way different from trekking in other mountain regions like Kashmir, Uttarakhand and Other parts of Himachal Pradesh. Since Spiti valley is a desert mountain valley, the oxygen level is less comparatively. Also, It was a cold month. It took me around 90 mins to reach the Dhankar village with my around 15 Kg backpack. Trekking through rocky snowy mountains was truly adventurous. For the first hour, there was no sight of the village. When I had the first glance of the village, it felt like I discovered some “Lost mysterious Himalayan village” haha and it starts to snowfall. Truly magical sight! I checked into Bendurya Hotel & Restaurant run by Mr Dim Dul. I totally recommend this place. They have a dormitory room and private rooms as per your requirements. The next day, I couldn’t able to venture out due to heavy snowfall. Just managed to visit the serene Dhankar monastery nearby. On the following day, I decided to trek to Dhankar lake. I was trekking in the midst of heavy snowfall without the proper gear. DO NOT DO THAT! I had a frostbite scare after the trek but it turns out it is after all the colour of my black socks  When I was halfway to the lake, I saw Mr Dim Dul coming my way. I waited for him and it turns out I was taking the long route to the lake. Anyways, we continued our journey to the lake together. When we reached the lake, it was almost completely frozen. I had never seen a frozen lake in my life. What a majestic view! Mr Dim Dul tried to walk on the lake and almost fell haha. We even spotted the footprints of a Snow leopard confirmed by Mr Dim Dul. It was an adventurous day, to say the least. Mr Dim Dul kept me engaged with several anecdotes about the lake and the village. Shortly after reaching back to the Dhankar village, I got a lift to Kaza.


Reaching Key village
Almost there

Small pond in the village

Stairs leading to the Key monastery
Key monastery at the top and monk homes below

New hall in making

The main hall
Key village from above
On the way back
Be careful of shooting stones!
Himalayan Goral sighting
Kaza 7 more kms


The key monastery is half an hour drive from Kaza. One can even stay at the monastery. I hitchhiked in a tractor to the Key village and while returning I almost walked till Kaza until a Gentleman gave me a lift for the remaining journey. From Key village, I hiked to the Key monastery. There are well-constructed stairs that will lead you to the monastery. It took like 30 minutes to reach the Key monastery. I meditated in the monastery cave for a while followed by the piping hot lunch served by the monks. It is such a peaceful place. A monk even invited me for the meditation sessions during the proper winter months of December, January when they hardly leave the meditation cave. Umm Minus 25. No thank you haha.

Its time for Langza!
JCB for the rescue!
Langza village
The famous buddha statue

Fossils on the wall

Missed visiting Komic and Hikkim. Little did I know back then that I will be back soon for them 🙂


Langza-Hikkim-Komic is the route people usually follow but thanks to heavy snowfall, I couldn’t able to visit Hikkim and Komic villages in the month of April. We almost got stuck in the mud and snow-laden road. Well, I did return back in the month of July to complete it! Langza is a fossil village where you can even spot the fossils on the walls of the village. It is also known for the huge beautiful Buddha statue. The way to Langza was full of stunning picturesque views of snow-clad mountains. We were 3 people who hired a sharing taxi for the whole circuit @ INR 2000.

Bridge that leads to Old kaza
Snowy days
Local dish: Thukpa
Capturing Milky Way

Kaza monastery
Kaza: One of the Highest altitude petrol pumps in the world 
I would like to have this mountain for a dessert
A day in a Shepherd’s life
Local restaurant in Kaza with stunning view


Kaza town is the HQ of the remote Spiti Valley. When I reached Kaza, there was virtually no electricity, no water and no mobile signal. I spend my days in Kaza doing meditation at Sakya Tangyud Monastery, wandering in Kaza narrow lanes, eating a lot of Thukpa (Local Tibetan dish), keeping myself warm from the harsh cold weather haha. It was such a meditative time for me. I learnt a lot about my mind, body and soul. Digital detox at its best.


I missed visiting Tabo town. Tabo lies between Nako and Shichling village. Tabo is known for the Tabo monastery. You can also explore the villages of Chicham and Kibber. Chicham is 20 km from the town of Kaza. It has Asia’s highest bridge. One can walk from Chicham to Kibber. Kibber is famous for Snow Leopards. Winter is the best season for the Snow Leopard expedition. There’s a bus service to the villages of Chicham and Kibber from Kaza which is affected due to the ongoing Pandemic. Taxis also ply to Chicham and Kibber from Kaza.


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